Manufacture of turned shoes



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

D. BAINBRIDGE. MANUFACTURE OF TURNED SHOES.

No. 468,885. Patented Nov. 24, 1891.

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(No Model.) A 2 Sheets-Sheet 2'.

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MANUFACTURE OF TURNED SHOES. No. 463,885. Patented Nov. 24, 18911 jmx'enton flew/1 05 Bwinbrz'dge .By his flllorna ys' m: Nunma PETERS co vno'rouwo msnmurou u c NiTnn STATns PATENT 01mins.

DAVID BAINBRIDGE, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

MANUFACTURE OF TURNED SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 463,885, dated November 24, 1891.

Application filed June 8,1891. Serial No. 395,519. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, DAVID BAINBRIDGE, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements in the Manufacture of Turned Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

The object of my invention is to make in a simple and ecomical manner a turned shoe which will be easy to the wearer, the use of tacks in the manufacture of the shoe being obviated and all stitches being concealed, as fully described hereinafter.

I have illustrated in the accompanying drawings an infants shoe; but it will be understood that my invention is applicable to the manufacture of all turned shoes.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a side view of the shoe made in accordance with my invention. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the sole. Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line 1 2, Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a sectional View showing the sole in the dies. Fig. 5 is a perspective View of thesole flanged in accordance with my invention. Fig. 6 is a sectional view of the last, upper, and sole in position ready for sewing. Fig. 7 is a perspective View showing the line of stitches uniting the flange of the sole and the upper. Fig. 8 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 6, showing the flange and upper sewed together and the flange turned down upon the sole. Fig. 9 is a sectional view of the shoe after it is turned and provided with an insole. Figs. 10, 11, and 12 are diagrams illustrating one method of bending theflange of the sole; and Figs. 13, 14, and 15 are diagrams illustrating another method.

Referring in the first instance to Figs. 2, 3, 4, and 5, I would state that the main feature of my invention is the flanged sole A, which is cut out in the first instance, as shown in the die B, which may be made in any suitable manner so as to turn the skived edges of the sole over upon the former. Hence when the sole is released from the dies it is in the form shown in Fig. 5,having an upturned flange a. The sole A is then secured to the last 0, the means employed for this purpose in the present instance being a plate 0, which is secured to the last by a couple of sole-tacks 0, common in shoe-making. Over the last is placed the upper D, which is Wrong side out, and is preferably lined, as shown in Fig.7, and when in position, as in Fig. 6, a row of stitches d is made on the line 3 Fig. 6, preferably at a point above the corner 00, thussecurely confining the upper to the flange of the sole. The next step is to secure to the sole that portion of the flange a which has heretofore been at right angles to the body of the sole, and this is done by pressing the flange down upon the body, as shown in Fig. 8, and securing it either by cement or by any other suitable means. Thus it will be seen that the stitching securing the sole to the upper is concealed between the flange and the sole, so that when the shoe is turned to expose the sole, as shown in Fig. 9, the stitches are concealed. By fianging the sole and turning down the flange, the body of the sole is rounded, as clearly shown in Figs. 1, 9, 12, and 15, giving an exterior finish to the shoe without further manipulation, and an insole or lining can be placed in the shoe in order to give the desired finish to the interior of the same. Where thin soles are usedsuch, forinstance, as the soles of infants shoes or other light shoesthe flange may be made as shown in Figs. 10, 11, and 12, the flange being bent up on the line at, Fig. 11, beyond the skived portion, so that when the flange is turned, as shown in Fig. 12, it will have the appearance of a comparatively heavy sole; but where a thick sole is used, as shown in Figs. 13, 14, and 15, I prefer to skive the edges, as shown in Fig. 13, and I bend the skived portion on the line on, Fig. 14, so that after the sole has been secured to the upper and the flange turned the rounded edge will be of the same thickness as the body of the sole, as clearly shown in Fig. 15.

By the employment of a flanged sole inthe manner described I am enabled to cheaply manufacture a turned shoe that will be comfortable to the wearer, and at the same time will have a neat appearance without that elaborate preparation which has heretofore been customary in making shoes of this class. The plate a (which I prefer to make of metal) not only tends to hold the sole to the last, but, being of the same contour as the last and sole, also acts as a guide in stitching the upper to the flange of the sole. The flange a may, if desired, be formed on the sole after the same is applied to the last; but the preliminary formation of the flange is preferred.

I claim as my invention- 1. The mode herein described of making shoes, said mode consisting in turning up the entire substance of the sole near the edge to form a projecting flange, stitching the upper to said flange, folding the flange and upper inward upon the body of the sole, and finally turning the shoe, substantially as specified.

2. The mode herein described of making shoes, said mode consisting in first skiving the sole at the edge, then turning up the entire substance of the sole near the edge to form a projecting flange, stitching the upper to said flange, folding the flange and upper inward upon the body of the sole, and finally turning the shoe, substantially as specified.

3. The mode herein described of making shoes, said mode consisting in turning up the cut-ire substance of the sole near the edge to form a projecting flange, securing said sole 7 to the last, applying the upper to the last, stitching said upper to the projecting flange of the sole, folding the flange and upper inward upon the body of the sole, removing the shoe from the last, and finally turning the shoe, substantially as specified.

4:. A shoe having the upper stitched to the sole adjacent to the edge of the same and hav ing the entire substance of the sole with the attached portion of the upper folded inward at the edge, said folded portion being secured to the body of the sole, substantially as specifled.

5. A shoe having a sole with skived edge and an upper stitched to said skived edge of the sole, the entire substance of the sole with the attached portion of the upper being folded inward at the edge and said fold being secured to the body of the sole, substantially as specified.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

DAVID BAlNl-lRlDGlC.

\Vitnesses:

EUGENE ELrERicn, HARRY SMITH. 

